Ua Pau | Marquesas eilanden | Frans Polynesie
The Marquesas Islands are in every respect far more primeval that the Society Islands. In years gone by, the individual tribes were constantly at war and tried with great ostentation to overawe each other. Nowadays the islands of Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva and Ua Huka guarantee peace, unspoilt greenery, beaches and sea.
Visitors are still welcomed at Hiva Oa Airport with a wild dance, a roll of drums and wailing. The men sporting traditional outfits appear extremely pugnacious, even threatening, and this all gives you an idea about how it once was here. Jacques Brel and Paul Gaugin visited Hiva Oa and never wanted to leave. They must have fallen in love with the beautiful bay at Atuona, with its backdrop of rugged volcano peaks and gigantic stone Tikis. The feeling of being almost in the middle of nowhere must have appealed to them and they must have walked for hours through the green valleys of this fertile volcanic island.
The Marquesas give you an impression of the rich Polynesian history. This group of islands has the most ancient maraes (sacred places) and tikis (sculptures) in all of French Polynesia. The maraes are often located deep in the forests and it's possible that some of these will never be discovered. Paul Gaugin opposed the way in which over-enthusiastic missionaries flattened maraes and tried to change the lifestyle of the local population. The Marae Oipona, located at Puamau, is a sacred archaeological site with impressive stone structures and the largest Tiki in French Polynesia. Cannibalism was inextricably linked with the warriors' culture; they believed that they could absorb a warrior's energy by eating him.
On the mysterious Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands, you will find imposing spire-like mountain peaks, remote green valleys, ancient maraes, fjord-like bays and waterfalls that are so high that the water evaporates while it's toppling downwards. Melvin Melville's book Typee is based on his experiences in the Tai Pi Vai Valley after his shipwreck. You will also find the Marquesas' most captivating artwork on Nuku Hiva. There is a small museum displaying a collection of Polynesian art, belonging to a 70-year-old American art historian who travels the islands to visit the artists and only buys the best available. The museum is located in the capital, Taiohae, beneath the island's most beautiful hotel (3 stars). A few of the museum pieces are also on sale.
The volcanic mountain peaks of the Oave are probably hiding behind the cloud cover on Ua Pou. Here you can visit the village of Hakahau here and take a walk to a point that gives you a beautiful view of island's peaks and valleys. The green Fatu Hiva is a centre of Polynesian art, where you can visit the villages of Omoa and Hanavave. Hanavave is situated in the bay of Virgins, which is revered as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. On the artistic island of Ua Huka you will find more horses than people, and be able to watch how they roam freely across the island. A jeep safari is a great idea, but a ride on horseback is certainly more relaxing. You will encounter numerous ateliers on your way, from which you can buy exquisite handmade souvenirs.
